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| Project
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Project for dovetailed box with contrasting
lining & butterfly dovetailed lid
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Illustration
1 - Using a scrap piece of wood, make two mirror opposite cuts
as if cutting dovetail pins.
If, during the project you decide to change the angle
selection, perhaps to cut the shoulders on the tail board,
the
exact angle is regained by using the scrap piece
with the sample
cuts.
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Mount the AngleMag close to one of these cuts; Place your saw into one
of these cuts.
Loosen the angle selector and shaft. Butt the magnetic saw glide
up to the saw and tighten the shaft first
followed by the angle selection. Original angle regained. Easy as
that! |
Illustration
2 -
Thin strips of contrasting colour wood are cut on the table saw and
glued into the rebated (insides) of all four boards then dressed flush
to the thickness of the boards.
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Illustration 3 -
Using a
depth marker, mark the depth of cut all around all four boards.
Mark about 1mm or 1/32” deeper than the thickness of the boards.
Mark both tail boards showing waste areas as shown.
Now clamp both tail boards butted
together, and using a straight edge,
check that they are level and continuous
on the top. |
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Method
- cutting the tails
first.
Illustration 4 -
Position and clamp the AngleMag so that if using a pull saw the outer
faces of the workpieces are away from you.
Cut down to the depth marks making sure the saw is level at the bottom
of the cut and stop.
Change the plane of cut to its mirror opposite by rotating the shaft
180 degrees.
Remove and replace the shaft on the opposite side of the AngleMag to
finish the cuts.
Repeat these cuts on the other ends of the tail boards in the same
manner.
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Chopping
waste to leave a
clean crisp finish
Illustration 5 - Using a square and sharp knife, score the
tail boards along the depth marks but only between the saw cuts within
the
waste areas.
Make as deep a cut with the knife so that you have a straight and crisp
knife cut.
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Illustration
6. &
Illustration 16 - Using a chisel, carefully chip and remove a
small amount of waste along the line. Now chop small amounts
alternatively from the ends and the base line,
progressing to half the thickness of the board.
Repeat the same on the other half until all waste is removed.
Note the slight inward angle of chisel. This avoids damage to the crisp
knife cut and also gives you a perfect fit.
The last image shows a crisp finish.

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Marking
the pin board using
the completed tail board (without lining)
Illustration 7 - Clamp the two adjoining or matching boards
square, making sure that the pin board is in a continuous line with the
marking
of the shoulder line of the tail board at both ends.
In order to do this, i have made a dovetailed corner (or half box
carcass) support that is clamped into the vice.
The pin board is clamped vertically, while the tail board is clamped
horizontally to make marking the pins easier with a marking knife.
Trace the pins with a marking knife angling the marking knife slightly
inwards.
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Cutting
& gluing the
contrasting "inter-connecting lining"
Illustration 8 - Mount the AngleMag on a supporting board with
the lining between the AngleMag and the supporting board.
Cut strips, using the same angle to fit and glue onto both sides of
the tails and half tails at both ends.
Allow the glue to dry and using a sharp chisel, pare away protrusions
to maintain the shape of the tails. Then follow the marking procedure
above for the pin board.
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Cutting
the pins using the
AngleMag
Illustration 9 - Clamp both the tail boards, butted together
making sure that they are level and continuous at the top.
Check with a straight edge.
Mount the AngleMag and with the saw attached to the saw guide, release
the shaft just enough to permit the shaft to slide, and when the kerf
of
the saw is precisely on the waste side of the line, gently dig the saw
teeth into the workpiece and then secure the shaft with the two screws.
Gently scrape the top of the workpiece without cutting, remove the saw
and inspect if the cut is precisely and just within the mark before
cutting with absolute confidence.
The sliding micro adjustment of the shaft will permit you to place your
matching cut exactly where you want to without the need to “pare away”
or make any alterations.
This is "hand made precision at its best." The AngleMag will give you
this matching cut with absolute precision time & again.
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Illustration
10 -
Chop the waste (see illustration 6 also) making sure the inside corners
are
free of "bits" before dry fitting.
The inner corners can be cleaned up using a sharp knife.
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Cutting
the shoulder with the
AngleMag
Illustration 11 - Either chop with chisel or elect to use the
AngleMag.
You can now cut the shoulders of the pin boards using the
AngleMag. Simply alter the angle to 90 degrees and cut down
slowly until the
shoulder cheek falls apart. If you wish to regain the exact angle
setting, return to the scrap
piece of wood, place the saw in one of these cuts, slide the shaft up
to the
saw with the angle selector also loosened.
Now tighten the two brass screws and then the angle selector.
Original angle regained. Images at the beginning of this project.
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Making
a joint using dovetail
keys – for the box lid
Illustration 12 - Cut both the adjoining pieces on the
table saw to the required size.
Place both outer faces together and clamp in the vice making sure they
are square especially on the top.
Select any angle for the key slot and cut down to the required depth
line.
Release and rotate the shaft 180 degrees and cut its mirror opposite.
Chop the waste.
Cut across the grain a contrasting piece of wood to the exact width of
the length of the key slot.
Mark the centre line on both sides of this piece.
Place this on a supporting platform and mount the AngleMag.
Using the same angle cut down to the centre with the saw level. Rotate
the shaft 180 degrees and cut the opposing side.
Release the upper clamp, slide the workpiece out; flip it over and
replace.
Now repeat the same two mirror opposite cuts.
In cutting the keys, take care to measure and mark accurately.
Fit to the adjoining pieces. This exercise relies on good marking out.
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